Saturday, December 13, 2014

Farmhouse Coffee Table Tutorial

Farmhouse Coffee Table Tutorial



Howdy! I built this table a few months ago when I was bored... Took no longer than about 2 hours to build. I think I am still going to stain it darker but here is a tutorial on how to make the farmhouse coffee table- which I did mostly out of scraps in my shop. 











First off... I had this wood block table top that I purchased from IKEA on a Thursday 30% off day in the as is room for $10. Yep- I am even proving I only spent $10. I bought this thing years ago and have been waiting for the perfect project to use it for.

See... I don't lie!
Isn't it beautiful! 

Here are the tabletop dimensions- 31 inches x 49.5 inches.

Height of finished table is 21 inches high.

All of the cuts you will need:

1 wooden butcher block top or the like (mine was 31 inches x49.5 inches)
1 1x8 at 28.5 long
2 4x4's at 15 inches tall
2 2x6's at 21.5 inches long
4 1x4's at 5.5 inches  (small squares)
2 2x4's at 16.5
6 2x3's at 8 inches long cut 45 degrees on each end off square
2 2x3's at 10 inches long cut 45degrees on each end off square


Also- you will need a speed square, wood glue, a sander, a brad nailer and various wood screws.


First, to build the legs- not very hard to do- but I only wanted to use scraps. So, I dug through my scrap pile to see what I could find... Here is what I came up with:



My son helping stack everything. My son- not a scrap- a GEM!



First, I needed two stabilizers, then "lifters" and then some decorative pieces.

First I made the stabilizers: 2x6 scraps with small blocks underneath "lifters" to give lift and a design factor.

The length of the main stabilizer is 21.5 inches. I made two of these. Underneath is the "lift" which were 1x4 scraps cut to the length of the 2x6 (5.5 inches).  I glued the lifters underneath and screwed in with 1.5 inch screws with my impact driver.

This is the upside down view
Next, I flipped these over and added 2x4's for more design interest and height. The cuts on the 2x4's are 16.5 inches in length- center these on the stabilizers. Glue and screw using 2.5 inch screws on each side. You will be covering these with the decorative pieces so do not worry about the screw tops showing.




Then,  I needed two large stable legs- so I used 2 4x4's that I had left over from... something..... I centered them on the 2x4's and just glued it on the bottom and left overnight to dry- since both 4x4's were level I laid the butcher block on top to create weight for the glue to set in.

Glued and drying. 

Next, to add the side 2x3 "trusses". I cut 4 of these for the bottom. Both ends are cut at a 45degree angle inward using my compound miter saw. The length of the longest outside part is 8 1/4 and which makes the inside length 3 inches. **

**Well first, I decided to do some light sanding to the 2x4's before I added the trusses. This is a belt sander with 150 grit paper belts. 




You can tell they are perfectly square because you can configure them in a "picture frame". 

Each piece is 8 1/4 inch in length cut off square 45degrees and the insides should measure 3 inches. 



Then I added them with glue and my brad nailer, they should create perfect little air triangles on the supports. 



Next for the top part. 
I found a scrap 1x8 already cut at 28.5 length (I wish this was longer in the end, but was NOT going to the store to purchase lumber). 


I added it to the two bases putting the 4x4 tops completely flush to the ends of the 1x8. I glued and screwed them in using 2.5 inch wood screws with my impact driver. 



Then I checked for level and added glue to the top to add the butcher block. 

I marked out in pencil and a speed square on the underside of the butcher block where
 the bottom piece would be attached.

I glued and screwed using 2 inch screws from the bottom to the underside of the butcher block. 
About 8 screws, I did split the piece a few times (should have pre drilled- learn from my mistakes please)... but decided that that's ok because it was underneath. 

This picture is a little later in the game- after I started adding more decorative trusses. 

Next for the trusses for the top end of the table, these are 2x3's cut at 45 degrees on each end. You will need 3 on each side, 2 are the same length, the third is shorter. 

The two longer ones on each side (left and right) are 10 inches in length, then cut off square 45degrees on each side. These pieces are glued and nailed into the 4x4 and the underside of the table. 

The center one is the same as the ones you made for the bottom pieces. 8 1/4 in length. These are centered and glued and nailed into the 4x4 and the underside of the butcher block on each end of the table. 


Then I flipped it right side up. And sanded as much as I could. I have not yet stained the piece I am thinking of doing that soon. I needed a table for my living room so I brought it right in. 



My son testing the strength- looks good! 

Another shot of the table in my shop.

Hope you love this build and try to make it yourself. You can use this same process or "pattern" to make a very large dining room table too! 

Happy Building! 

Love, Kristen 

4 comments:

  1. Love it, love it, LOVE it! This has got me thinking...have you ever, or could you ever, make an industrial cart coffee table?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Jess- yes but we would have to find the metal part that goes underneath and the casters. We could find something old remove the old top and then just add the new top.

    ReplyDelete
  3. You just have so many guts to go ahead and tell it like it is. A very nice informational blog. Keep on making such important blog post. That’s nice and useful blog site for all thanks.
    Dustin T

    ReplyDelete